by Simon Jenkins
Fly into the American air base of Tallil outside Nasiriya in central Iraq
and the flight path is over the great ziggurat of Ur, reputedly the earliest
city on earth. Seen from the base in the desert haze or the sand-filled
gloom of dusk, the structure is indistinguishable from the mounds of fuel
dumps, stores and hangars. Ur is safe within the base compound. But its
walls are pockmarked with wartime shrapnel and a blockhouse is being built
over an adjacent archaeological site. When the head of Iraq's supposedly
sovereign board of antiquities and heritage, Abbas al-Hussaini, tried to
inspect the site recently, the Americans refused him access to his own most
important monument.
Yesterday Hussaini reported to the British Museum on his struggles to
protect his work in a state of anarchy. It was a heart breaking
presentation. Under Saddam you were likely to be tortured and shot if you
let someone steal an antiquity; in today's Iraq you are likely to be
tortured and shot if you don't. The tragic fate of the national museum in
Baghdad in April 2003 was as if federal troops had invaded New York city,
sacked the police and told the criminal community that the Metropolitan was
at their disposal. The local tank commander was told specifically not to
protect the museum for a full two weeks after the invasion. Even the Nazis
protected the Louvre.
When I visited the museum six months later, its then director, Donny George,
proudly showed me the best he was making of a bad job. He was about to
reopen, albeit with half his most important objects stolen. The pro-war
lobby had stopped pretending that the looting was nothing to do with the
Americans, who were shamefacedly helping retrieve stolen objects under the
dynamic US colonel, Michael Bogdanos (author of a book on the subject). The
vigorous Italian cultural envoy to the coalition, Mario Bondioli-Osio, was
giving generously for restoration.
The beautiful Warka vase, carved in 3000BC, was recovered though smashed
into 14 pieces. The exquisite Lyre of Ur, the world's most ancient musical
instrument, was found badly damaged. . . .
FULL TEXT
Robert Fisk, "A Civilisation Torn to
Pieces," Independent, April 13, 2003
Humberto Marquez, "Iraq Invasion
'Biggest Cultural Disaster Since 1258' ," Inter Press Service,
February 16, 2005